The Story
A one-dish shop in the Old City
In 1860, in Souk Khan el-Zeit in Jerusalem's Old City, a former Ottoman soldier named Mohammed Zalatimo I opened a tiny pastry stall at the entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. He sold exactly one thing: mutabbaq — "folded" in Arabic — sheets of hand-stretched dough wrapped around white cheese, baked golden, drenched in syrup and dusted with sugar.
Accounts of the family's telling say Mohammed I, born around 1830 in Jerusalem, discovered his passion for baking while serving with the Ottoman army in Lebanon in the 1850s, where he is said to have married a baker's daughter before returning home to perfect his recipe. The little shop prospered almost immediately — a seating area was added, helpers were hired, and the pastry became so identified with the family that locals nicknamed it "Zaltoomeh."
The stall itself occupies a vaulted, semi-subterranean stone chamber built against ancient masonry — widely described as remnants of the original Byzantine entrance to the Holy Sepulchre. Because the space is classified as an archaeological site, the family was never permitted to alter its façade; for over 150 years the mutabbaq was baked on the same handmade copper trays dating to the shop's founding.
After Mohammed I's death, his son Ibrahim carried on the craft and broadened the range of sweets, and for more than a century successive Zalatimo men ran the Jerusalem shop essentially as a one-man show — rolling, folding, baking and serving each order themselves. For decades, Mr. Zalatimo would open the store before sunrise, prepare dough to create a specific number of muttabbaqs, and once they were sold, he would close the shop and go home. Day in and day out. That consistency and discipline helped keep the shop in business for 160 years.
In the 1980s, political hardship in Jerusalem pushed the family toward a crossroads that would eventually turn a single stall into an international name.